RocknSPOrt Protocol
A scientifically-based rehab protocol which allows your pulley to heal and get you back to climbing!
Protocol designed for treatment of complete tear (Grade III sprain) of A2 or A4 pulley.
Weeks 1-6
Wear S.P.Ort full time (except bathing)
NO climbing or bouldering!
Other training / athletic activities:
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Regain full motion of the injured finger: full extension (getting it completely straight) and full flexion (getting it to bend as much as the contralateral finger can) even if you have to do it passively (using the other hand to help regain the motion).
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Be mindful of any life activities that may strain your finger, e.g. lifting a bag of groceries, opening a jar, etc.
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Aerobic, core and flexibility training are “on the menu”, e.g. planks, yoga, etc.
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Upper body pushing exercises are fine, e.g. push-ups, dips, bench press, etc.
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Avoid using rings, TRX or pullup bars for front levers or leg lifts until after 12 weeks.
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Weeks 7-8
Wear S.P.Ort full time (except bathing, sleep)
Gradually return to climbing *only open hand/grip* (i.e. no crimp or half crimp), several number grades lower than your redpoint level.
Static and controlled movement is the goal.
Top-rope climbing is ideal, because if you feel the need to crimp or half crimp, you can just let go. Possible to do while leading, but requires serious discipline.
Mellow ARC training is okay.
Other training / athletic activities:
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Gradually add open hand / 3 finger grip (index, middle, and ring fingers) hangboarding (use a pulley and weights to take weight off.)
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Begin light upper body pulling training [curls, lat pulls and assisted (50% bodyweight) pull ups with feet on a chair or with
an assisted pullup machine].​ -
NO campus boarding, limit boulders, projecting, dynos and the like.
Weeks 9-12
Wear S.P.Ort for climbing & other grip activities (anything more intense than typing)
Continue moderate open grip climbing up to a couple number grades below your redpoint level.
AVOID using half-crimp or full-crimp grips with the injured hand. Period.
Other training / athletic activities:
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Increase open hand / 3 finger grip hangboarding (use a pulley and weights if needed to take weight off).
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Advance to moderate upper body pulling training [curls, lat pulls and assisted (75% body weight) pull ups with feet on a chair or with an assisted pullup machine].​
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Still, NO campus boarding, limit boulders, projecting and the like. Stay the course!
Climber has taped S.P.Ort on middle finger!
Weeks 13-16
Wear S.P.Ort for climbing & strenuous grip activities (e.g. manual labor, pullups on a bar)
Continue moderate open grip climbing up to one number grade below your redpoint level.
AVOID using full-crimp grip with the injured hand.
Introduce half-crimping and progressively increase loads. Start in controlled setting, slowly increase weight.
Other training / athletic activities:
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Begin half-crimp and 2 finger open hand hangboarding (use a pulley and weights if needed to take weight off).
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Add back in using rings, TRX or pullup bars for unassisted pull ups, front levers and leg lifts as tolerated.​
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Still, NO campus boarding, limit boulders, projecting and the like. Almost there!
Months 5-6
Discontinue S.P.Ort use (unless finger is sore in the pulley region)
Gradually return to normal bouldering and climbing including crimping as tolerated.
Gradually return to normal training activities as tolerated, including campus boarding, limit move training, boulder ladders, etc.
